Irish designer Paul Costelloe brought an equestrian-inspired vision to London Fashion Week with his latest autumn-winter 2025 collection. His designs had structured shapes, rich textures, and bright patterns that were influenced by the world of showjumping. The runway showcased a fusion of traditional and contemporary, featuring Jodhpur-style culottes, tailored tweed jackets, and elegant dressage coats.
A Blend of Tradition and Modern Edge
Paul Costelloe, now 79, revisited a vintage theme that first appeared in his earlier collection, Dressage. Speaking to Reuters, the designer revealed how the vibe continues but with a refreshing twist. The theme is vintage but interestingly similar to the old collection of mine called Dressage so quite equestrian. It has very nice tweeds, but we’ve made it a bit more raunchy perhaps,” he said. His newest pieces mix classic horse riding ideas with new ones.
A Rich and Seasonal Color Palette
The collection featured a warm, autumnal palette, incorporating shades of brown, amber, and red, along with timeless cream and black. The designs featured a wide array of patterns, including check designs and floral prints. Accessories like caps and boots add to the equestrian quality.
London Fashion Week’s Global Spotlight
London Fashion Week, running from February 20 to 24, marks the second stop in the autumn-winter 2025 fashion calendar. Following its New York debut, the season’s show will move on to Milan and Paris. The London show is a mix of up-and-coming designers and established brands like Burberry, Erdem and Roksanda. London continues to be a European city that produces designers who define luxury fashion globally.
Supporting Designers in a Challenging Market
This season, a pop-up shop on Regent Street aims to provide commercial support for designers, helping them reach a broader audience. According to Caroline Rush, outgoing CEO of the British Fashion Council, the industry is going through tough times. “It is particularly hard time in the UK because we are still getting through the trade barriers of being out of the EU,” she told Reuters. According to her, the temporary store is a great opportunity to showcase British designers and their creativity.
As Paul Costelloe’s collection infused the runway with a sense of equestrian elegance, London Fashion Week persisted with its mission of innovation, talent, and style on the world stage.
